How To Rack Nuts Climbing. Learn how to get stuck cams and nuts un-stuck. You can&rsq

Learn how to get stuck cams and nuts un-stuck. You can’t squander minutes searching for the perfect piece, drain strength by over-gripping while you untangle runners from your cams, or waste energy by lugging up unnecessary weight. Being able to find the right wire quickly is vital when you’re sailing close to the wind, one hand greasing off while the other searches for the life saving (well lob stopping) Wallnut #7. Trad Climbing for Beginners - 4 Nut Placements 4 / 16 Trad Climbing for Beginners 1 The best placements I found involved either placements that flare inward (which take regular nuts just fine) and placements where the nut was placed perpendicular to the wall as in |- This also did not seem reasonable. I was reading about nut placement on a Mountain Project article (mirrored from climbing. Learn how to rack cams and nuts efficiently for trad climbing with tips on organization, accessibility, and gear selection to climb smoothly and safely. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Will you take one nut off at a time or approach the crack with a bunch of similarly sized nuts. Mar 22, 2021 · The 8 steps you need to follow to build your first trad rack. How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process be May 24, 2019 · Nuts, pieces of metal wedged into cracks, are used to protect you while climbing a route or creating belay anchors. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. 6. Find out how to position and remove nuts safely. Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. Dec 31, 2021 · This video shows an AMGA guide's trad rack and the essential cams, nuts, and auxiliary equipment utilized for trad climbing. We go over tips and tricks to get more booty with your nut tool. Dec 15, 2023 · Nuts are quite cheap compared to cams, and a 10-12 piece array of nuts in various sizes is a good starting point for your first trad rack. Learn the exact pieces of gear you need, along with specific recommendations for each. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazine Gear Editor, shows how to place and DMM dragonfly red-grey DMM offset nuts wild country ultralight rocks 8 alpines honorable mentions: wild country rocks, wild country zero friends, a double rack of totems, DMM dragons not junk but never make it on the rack: z4, c4, metolius cams, wallnuts (most nuts besides WC rocks, really), c3s (expensive and no longer produced though) In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some useful advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Choose the right climbing protection gear to get your started with trad climbing. Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. 4 locking carabiners. Wires: Three (3, 6, 10) Big nuts: One size 7 hex or 5 Rockcentric Dec 21, 2017 · But, once you’re climbing, you might just go for whatever’s most handy or fits at that moment. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Big walling is a big topic so we broke it into bite-size "pitches" with a video to START each one. are all pretty unique features to NC. Learn about nuts, hexes, cams and other equipment you may need. Oct 18, 2023 · Building your climbing rack is an essential skill for any rock climber. 4-6 quickdraws. 20 non-locking carabiners. Winter Climbing Rack Winter Climbing Rack Have ever wondered about what to take out on the hill when going winter climbing. Don’t be tempted to cram them all on one biner—this will make it harder to find the piece you need, and if you drop this biner, you’ll lose all your nuts. We even find it funny, sort of like a rite of passage, that classic "Oh I think you may need to put some more Sep 1, 2025 · IMP Brass Nuts / Brass Offsets Brass nuts are the gold standard as far as microwires are concerned. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. 20-30 feet of 7mm accessory cord. Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that After you build the meat and potatoes of your rack (nuts and cams), then you can look on MP or the guidebook to see how you'll want to fill your rack out, based on the climbs you want to do. Looking Glass, Laurel Knob, and Whiteside Mtn. In this article, we discuss when to use a climbing nut versus a cam, plus how to place climbing nuts for your safety and confidence on the crag. Mayan Smith-Gobat knows a thing or two about smart racking, with multiple speed records broken on the Nose of El Cap this year. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. 2 sets of offset micro nuts, 1 set of offset normal nuts, 2 cam hooks, 1 grappel, 1 talon and a handful of rivet hangers is the special sauce to the hard spots. These simple metal wedges are placed in tapering cracks to create solid anchor points, forming the backbone of your protection system. I climbed a lot of stuff in the SE with that rack so I see where you're coming from but what constitutes a good rack depends on where you are. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Nov 22, 2021 · Basic guidelines for your first trad rack 1 set of cams, covering #. Nuts come in full-size packs, so just buy one series to start. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Dec 4, 2008 · There are many variations when it comes to racking your nuts, but all climbers would agree that using, and sticking to, a set system is crucial. 4-3. Knowing what gear to rack and how to rack it can create a more efficient experience when starting out. There are many ways to rack your cams, nuts, and slings. In rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Gear UP ⬆ "Standard" aid rack A double set of totems (exclude orange), aliens, offset aliens and C4s #0. Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. In this video we show the process of installing two different types of t-nuts that are sold at Atomik Climbing Holds. If you're on your 3rd trad lead ever and you're out of gear, looking at a dangerous fall, and all you have is a horizontal nut placement, you should reassess what you're climbing Nov 8, 2008 · Screws: Two 17cm, one 22cm CASCADE RACK A typical rack for pure ice-climbing is very, very specialized and unlike any of the other racks is designed to cope primarily with one medium. Technically, racking carabiners can be any carabiner you have – they become a racking carabiner when they start holding, or “racking” your gear. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. 75 to #3 will give you about 4 options for every placement. Helmets - even more essential than in sport climbing, as there is a higher risk of falling debris in the form of dropped gear (and trad climbing is more likely to take place on chossy rock) Speciality pro suited to the style of climbing at your preferred crag, such as: Offset nuts and cams - great for flaring cracks Micro cams - great for small Nov 19, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. This Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. I will show you 3 different ways to install the 4 prong t-nut and how to make them last longer. Should you use a gear sling or rack on your harness? This video takes a look at how to rack for a Jun 2, 2015 · They are most necessary while trad climbing as a way to hold all the cams and nuts on your harness or gear sling. Apr 27, 2022 · In the 1920s, British climbers carried pebbles in their pockets, slotting them into cracks and tying them off (with hemp cord) for pro. #tradclimbing #rockclimbing #mult Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Nuts are removable securing devices that act as an anchor for alpine climbing. Disagree, when you're climbing at-your-limit-trad and trying to onsight multi-pitch routes nothing is more annoying than a wedged nut. Avoid steels unless you’re keen on prematurely developing biceps that rival gorillas from carrying an unnecessarily heavy rack. Question on nut placement advice I've sport climbed for a while but am only now getting into trad. However, professional mountain guide Marc Chauvin, the co-instructor for Climbing’s Intro to Trad Climbing online course, says that we should keep an active inventory of gear while climbing—a process he calls “rack management. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. 10 shoulder-length (60 cm) sewn runners. Buying used gear can be a great way to save money. The evolution of rock climbing nuts reflects a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, where the fundamental purpose remains unchanged, but the means of achieving it continue to progress. Jun 30, 2022 · How to place cams and nuts / wires so they stick! The video also covers the basics of organising gear on your harness and considerations when placing kit into the rocks. Feb 23, 2020 · We share some guidance on how to build your first trad climbing rack to help you choose the right gear and which pieces we'd never leave the ground without. May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. It’s very common when you first start climbing to have your nuts tinkle out below you as you move up. But all we jam in gear when pumped and about to peal. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. With the wire soldered directly into the head a thicker, stronger wire can be used meaning that even though they're micro in size, they're impressively mighty in strength. com), and was surprised that the first tip in the "advanced techniques" section was to place 2 nuts in opposition in a horizontal crack. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. Dec 4, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 8mm Climbing nuts, climbing hexes, and nut tools to complete your trad rack Staples in any trad climber’s kit, climbing nuts and climbing hexes are designed to be wedged into the cracks of a rock wall to offer fall protection without leaving any major scarring behind. Feb 25, 2024 · As climbing technology evolves, climbers benefit from lighter yet stronger nuts, contributing to a safer and more efficient climbing experience. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. This is free resource by HowNOT2 that will help you get up big rocks. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. g. You can learn this climbing technique and be safe when lead climbing. At the same time, the ice-climber should carry a token amount of rock gear - just in case. Sep 8, 2022 · Knowing how to place climbing nuts for the best protection allows you to save your pricey cams for when you really need them, getting more mileage out of your climbing gear. Aug 8, 2022 · How to rack ’em Rack a standard set of 10 to 12 nuts on two carabiners, organized by size, and clipped to a gear loop on your harness or a shoulder sling. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or a cable which is part of the hex. Effectively a metal wedge on a wire sling, these pieces of protection are the bread and butter of keeping climbers safe when they are trad climbing. Master the 5 Pillars of bomber placements and get our printable pocket card for the crag. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. Apr 5, 2023 · Trad climbing is an important skill for rock climbers to have if they’re going to explore routes that aren’t fully protected with fixed gear. 1 set of wired nuts or stoppers. . Apr 14, 2025 · Material Matters: Most climbing nuts are made from aluminum, which balances strength and weight perfectly, just like the ultimate climbing partner. How do you rack your nuts? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. As the name suggests, our Organising An Ice Climbing Lead Rack advice shares some ideas for your ice climbing adventures. Most rock climbers will be carrying between 20 and 40 nuts Nuts Nuts are a versatile piece of rock protection and the foundation of any trad rack. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 2- Racking up for long and more complex routes with gear arrange small on the left and large on the right. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. In this review we take a look at what's available and give our opinion on what is the We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Gear EPISODE: My Big Wall Rack - Cams, Nuts, and Hooks The Big Wall Bible Knowledge is zero grams. We show how to install a 4-prong t-nut and a round-base t-nut. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing gear editor, shows how to place and clean nuts. My rack started with a set of nuts, followed by tricams, followed by medium sized camelots. Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Apr 2, 2011 · The other thing to consider is how you will place the protection. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces (e. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. The lightweight construction, versatile placement options, and high strength rating make it an excellent addition to any climber’s rack. How to place ’em As with any removable protection, placing nuts takes Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. 1 – Racking up for an easy route with a basic rack for trad climbing. Al Placing nuts well keeping you safe while leading and being able to remove nuts that your leader's placed is incredibly important -- the smoother and faster you can do it the easier climbing becomes. For a more in-depth discussion of what makes a good passive placement, we recommend John Long's book Climbing Anchors. Sharp modern ice screws can offer a solid anchor point within seconds and, with the steel/aluminum hybrid design, they are lighter than ever. 1 day ago · The DMM Wire Torque Nut Set is a well-designed and reliable piece of climbing gear that delivers on its promises. How many nuts shall I take? Should I take my cams? How many ice screws will I need? What pitons shall I take? Here is our recommended winter climbing rack. rock climbing and ice climbing), and on artificial surfaces (e. Take it with you. Climbing is done for locomotion, sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension, such as construction and military operations. Sep 1, 2025 · If you climb with someone else who's building a rack, pool your resources - one gets all the even size gear, the other the odd, that way you get a rack built faster and cheaper. Oct 31, 2024 · Our recommendations are here to help you find the best nuts and stoppers while saving time at the computer and keeping more money in your wallet. A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. This will also influence how you rack and depends how accurate your judgement is in slecting the right nut first time. Our engineering-first guide on how to mount climbing holds. Same goes for quickdraws, just get enough for the short routes you normally do and combine resources for long routes. How to place stopper nuts when rock climbing and trad climbing is a skill al trad climbers need to know. ” All of the rock climbing nuts and nut tools that are currently on-sale, updated multiples times per day to get the best sales and deals on the best gear. Inspect your wires for kinks or abrasions and inspect the heads of your nuts for abrasions or cracks. DMM manufacture a range of nuts to fit all occasions, but for starting out we recommend a full 1-11 set of Wallnuts, which are designed to fit into tapered cracks, and a set of Alloy Offsets which are an irregular shape to fit into flared cracks. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. Nov 29, 2017 · Nut or Wires are the backbone of the modern trad climbing rack and knowing how to use them is vital. Feb 1, 2013 · Successful and swift traditional climbing is all about efficiency. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Building a climbing gym has its own challenges, like installing 8000+ T-Nuts on a budget. The aim is to have lots of videos, Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. This article will teach you the basics but remember there is no substitute for being taught on a learn to trad climb course. If you're using climbing nuts, you'll probably want to purchase a nut tool to help retrieve wedged nuts and stuck cams. Read full article Nuts, Rocks and Wires are generic names for a type of leader place protection for rock climbing. climbing walls and climbing gyms). 2 days ago · Photographers photo site - Amazing Images From Around the World Sep 4, 2013 · Every wondered who makes climbing nuts? We go over how many different nuts their are. All tutorials and quizzes ab Jan 29, 2013 · Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. Climbing gear is not made to last forever. We really hope you find it useful. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Learn how to place nuts effectively for climbing by choosing solid cracks, testing stability, and positioning gear to maximize safety and reliable protection. The core of any traditional climbing rack, climbing nuts and wires are the fundamental pieces of passive climbing protection that keep you safe on the rock. Learn the physics of T-nuts, bolt loads & torque for a truly bombproof, durable wall. He goes into great depth about what makes for good protection. Oct 22, 2023 · The Rack Just as spring-loaded camming devices (cams) changed the game for rock climbing, so too has the modern ice screw. I climb with a lot of novice climbers and teach a lot of climbers how to lead and one of the most important skills in staying safe at the sharp end is getting your nuts to stay put. 1 nut tool. These will give you a good range of sizes. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, having the right gear is crucial Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. B… Learn to place trad nuts like a pro with this AMGA-based guide.

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